The John Lobb factory is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the 19th century.
Modern machines are present but secondary. For instance, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is limited, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only 60% of each hide is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines iconic staples with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a reinforced sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the 1950s, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah trainers, which are offered annually in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb continues to be one of the pillars in world-class shoemaking.
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