The John Lobb brand is a highly respected manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a shoemaking capital in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory remains committed to the craft techniques developed in the 1800s.
Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is limited, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only 60% of each hide is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The collection combines heritage designs with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained longer straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the 1950s, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah trainers, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb stands as one of the pillars in English shoemaking.
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